The Tamar Estuary is Australia's third place of settlement after Sydney and Hobart. George Town was settled in 1804 but the lack of a reliable water supply forced to colony up to the confluence of the North and South Esk rivers - now known as Launceston. The estuary is navigable right up to Launceston, a distance of 53kms. The Pilot station is the longest continuously operated one in Australia. It is also the longest estuary navigable from the sea in Australia. Launceston was a busy port for many years but is now home to mainly private and tourist craft.
The head of the estuary is at Low Head where a lighthouse has been in operation since 1805:
The waters off Low Head, according to National Geographic, is one of the top five diving spots in the World with magnificent marine life.
On this peninsula, Fairy Penguins nest and come home at dusk to feed their chicks. In 1995, the 'Iron Baron' hit the Hebe Reef coming in to the Tamar and oil contaminated the penguins. In a massive operation by the local people, all the contaminated penguins were rescued, washed, fed and rehabilitated in various backyard swimming pools and returned to their nests. Not one bird was lost and the colony thrives. George Town council organises penguin viewing tours. This is the beach where they come ashore:
Here is the longest continuously operating pilot station in Australia - operating since 1805:
Next to the pilot station is a maritime museum:
And just across the road a historic church:
The estuary narrows where it passes between Garden Island and George Town. The currents here are fierce. George Town, settled in 1804, never became a city and so is Australia's oldest town.
The above photo shows George Town taken from Garden Island with Mt George behind. On Mt George, there is a telegraph similar to the ones built across southern England to connect Portsmouth to the Admiralty in London. Together with one at Mt Direction, the arrival of ships could be signalled to Launceston.
Situated in George Town is the 'Matthew Flinders Experience'. In 1798 Flinders and Bass sailed around Tasmania in HM Colonial sloop Norfolk and proved it was an island. In 1998 the voyage was re-enacted with a replica Norfolk built out of Huon pine and Celery Top pine. Not a single nail or screw was used - all the joints are held together with trunnels.
The photo below shows the estuary from Garden Island up to Point Effingham (how did that get its name?!) with Beauty Point in the distance. To the right is Clarence Point.
In 2000, the federal government gave a grant for pontoons to be built right up the estuary and these are favourite fishing spots. This one's at Clarence Point:
The boat ramp at Clarence Point:
Just round the corner is West Arm which has sandstone cliffs and beautiful sandy beaches - a magic boating spot. The early settlers tried settling at the head of West Arm but it was too arid for their cattle. Very little remains of that early settlement called Yorktown. This is the pontoon in West Arm (tide out):
At Beauty Point (which was named after a cow) the estuary widens out in to a huge natural deep water anchorage called Port Dalrymple. This photo was taken from behind the Australian Maritime College which also has a campus in Launceston and has students from all around the World. The port of Bell Bay is situated along the north shore of Port Dalrymple.
This is a view of Middle Island from the other side of Port Dalrymple:
West Arm runs down from Port Dalrymple south-west to the town of Beaconsfield (named after British Prime Minister Lord Beaconsfield - better known as Benjamin Disraeli):
Beaconsfield Gold mine is now famous after two miners were rescued after being 2 weeks trapped one km underground after a rock fall in April 2006. The mine has been there for over a century but the original one was flooded. Recently, with better technology, the mine was drained and more gold extracted. It is said to have the richest single vein of gold in the World. The museum is worth a visit as much of the original equipment was salvaged and is quite unique:
The Bell Bay industrial area (taken from Mt George)is virtually invisible at ground level except for the stacks:
The Estuary then turns south-west and is runs straight for several kms. This part is known as Longreach and it is where Gunns Ltd intend to build their pulp mill on the east bank (left side of photo). The woodchip mills can be seen.
Clouds in the evening over the mill site at Longreach:
Opposite Longreach is an area called Rowella which is an area of farmland, orchards and several vineyards. It is also becoming a very popular place to live. All this area was once apple orchards exporting their produce as far as Britain. The European Common Market put a stop to all that. There is a fish farm directly opposite where the mill will be built:
A fully promoted and signposted Wine Route has been set up to promote the local wineries. This is Tamar Ridge vineyard which is owned by Gunns Ltd. The mill will be built on the bank behind the vineyard on the other side of Longreach and will be fully visible from this spot.
East Arm takes the estuary up to the East Tamar Highway where 'Fourteen Mile Creek' joins the Tamar.
At the end of Longreach the Tamar turns 90 degrees at Point Rapid and runs south-west down Moriarty Reach. This is the Point Rapid property, built in 1839, almost opposite the wood chip mills:
The bushranger, Matthew Brady, raided the Point Rapid property but the troops sent to arrest him accidently killed the settler and allowed Brady to escape! More on Matthew Brady, the gentleman bushranger, later on.
A rainbow over Moriarty Reach:
In 1874, a race between two boats resulted in 8 deaths when the steamer 'Little Nell' blew up, disintegrated and sank trying to outpace the paddle steamer 'Tamar'!
The Tamar valley is very often foggy on Autumn and Winter mornings although it usually clears by 10am:
Built in the early 1830's and looking out over Moriarty Reach is Waterton Hall which has its own vineyard and chapel - and it is said a ghost of a naval officer looking out of a window (although he hasn't been seen recently):
It passes the township of Kayena which got it's name from the native for tongue. It is built on a spit sticking out into the river - this is Drumstick Island at Kayena (at low tide it is shaped like a drumstick even with a knob on the handle!):
There is also a beach here and a pontoon - a very popular place, especially in the summer:
The property right on the end of the spit at Kayena, Como, has a bit of history. It belonged to newspaper magnate Sir Gordon Rolph and long term Prime Minister Sir Robert Menzies used to spend his holidays there (He was reputed to have said that he made many important decisions whilst walking around Kayena). It was also used to hide the Soviet defectors, the Petrovs in 1954.
On the other side of the 'tongue' of Kayena is a bay called Devils Elbow - a favourite mooring spot with a boat rammp and pontoon. The river cruiser 'Rosny' lies at the bottom of Devils Elbow after she caught fire and sank:
The Auld Kirk, built in 1845, is on the west bank just north of the Batman Bridge:
The estuary is very narrow and deep at this point and it was an ideal place to bridge it. Unfortunately, one bank was rather unstable so the structure had to be supported from the west side only. The Batman Bridge is named after John Batman who was the Tasmanian who helped settle Melbourne. It is the only bridge on the estuary.
Once past Whirlpool Reach, the estuary opens up again into a huge bay called Spring Bay. All the estuary from the Batman Bridge upwards is a conservation area. This shows Spring Bay from the Deviot jetty - Sea Eagles nest on the opposite bank:
This photo was taken from the other side of Spring Bay and shows how the Rice Grass has grown down the estuary. It was originally planted to stabilise the banks so that flying boats could land but the World moved on to land based aircraft. The Rice Grass has, however, produced a World class area of wetlands for water birds and other animals.
Spring Bay is a very popular yachting area. This is the Deviot Yacht Club:
The Supply River empties into Spring Bay. In 1804, the Lady Nelson sailed up the Tamar and discovered a supply of fresh water at a waterfall just 500 metres up the river - hence its name. The initials that one of the sailors carved on the rocks is still there:
In 1825, a flour mill was built here. It lasted until 1888. The mill was burnt down and the operator killed by angry natives. The ruins are still there at the base of the waterfall:
On the southern side of Spring Bay is Paper Beach. A beautiful sandy beach means that it's a favourite spot for picnics. There is a riverside walk here from the Supply River to Swan Bay.
This is Egg Island near the eastern shore of Spring Bay
The pontoon at Hillwood looks over to Swan Point and Paper Beach as the estuary curves round west to Gravelly Beach.
The town of Gravelly Beach with its distinctive Palm trees:
This is the Tamar as it passes Gravelly Beach towards Rosevears. This photo was taken from the West Tamar Highway as it leaves Exeter:
At Rosevears you will find one of the oldest pubs in Australia, the Rosevears Tavern. Just a bit further along is the Waterbird Haven where for just a few dollars you can get upfront and personal with a large collection of water birds. Well worth a visit.
Close to this spot is the place where John Batman built his boat 'Rebecca' in which he sailed across to Port Philip Bay and founded Melbourne. There is a small monument at the exact spot. Across the Tamar from Rosevears is Windermere with its beautiful little church. There used to be a ferry at this point.
Looking across to the Rosevears Tavern from the Windermere jetty.
The hill above Rosevears is called Brady's Lookout after a bushranger called Matthew Brady who would scan the road below for victims and swoop down and rob them. There is a large cave here with its own water supply - an ideal hiding place. Apparently he was very polite, a cultured and educated man and he would never rob a lady or harm his victims. He actually shot his accomplice when he molested a lady (only in the hand)! It didn't do him any good though as he was betrayed by an accomplice and captured by John Batman and hanged in Hobart in 1826. Apparently he received gifts and letters from ladies whilst he was in jail. The views from Brady's lookout are quite spectacular:
The view above is a view over the river towards Windermere. The picture below shows the view across to Mt Barrow:
There are several vineyards in and around Rosevears. Tasmanian wines are typically very high quality especially Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rieslings and sparkling wines. Here we are looking back towards Gravelly Beach from Brady's lookout with vines in the foreground:
The river turns a right angle at the small stream called Muddy Creek and heads up to Freshwater Point and Legana. On the opposite bank is Dilston.
Just past Legana is Tamar Island, pictured from the East Tamar Highway, which has been developed as a tourist attraction and nature reserve. Access is from the West Tamar Highway or there's a pontoon. There is a small visitor centre which looks a bit like a satellite dish!
The Estuary flows past the University and Launceston Grammar School and round Stephensons bend. The cleared area on the opposite bank is where the pipes come down from Lake Trevallyn to the hydro power station.
The head of the Tamar is at Launceston where the South Esk and North Esk rivers combine. It is tidal right up to Launceston - the tidal range is 3 metres.
The ship repair yard at Launceston has recently been redeveloped into a hotel/restaurant complex called the Old Sea Port:
Leading into the yacht basin is Launcestons most famous attribute - the Cataract Gorge - a stunning geographical feature just a few minutes from the city centre. This is the century old bridge at the mouth - The King's Bridge.
Launceston's Albert Hall. It has one of only three water driven pipe organs in the World.
City Park where Festivale and open air concerts are held. There is also a colony of Macaque monkeys living in a very expensive enclosure.
St John's Anglican church in Launceston in the late afternoon light.
Launceston (pronounced LON-SES-TON) is Australia's third oldest city after Sydney and Hobart. It is named after a town in Cornwall (which the Cornish pronounce LARNSTON) which also has a River Tamar. It has many fascinating old buildings and lovely parks. The city is surrounded by mountains and on Ben Lomond there is a small ski resort. Some AFL games are played at the Aurora stadium. Launceston tends to have a smog problem in Winter due to wood burning stoves and an inversion layer trapping the smoke but the problem is very local and does not extend down the Tamar valley. Australia's cricket captain, Ricky Ponting, hails from Launceston (as did David Boon). The population is about 70,000.
Hope you enjoyed your tour of the Tamar estuary - come and visit - it's well worth it!